Thursday, March 4, 2010

Game Nico Robin Dan Nami

Restaurant Hall City Crissier, Philippe Rochat



On Thursday, March 4, 2010, thirteen students from the Lausanne Hotel School and I have been privileged to have lunch in the restaurant's head repeatedly decorated and dignified successor to the iconic Freddy Girardet, Philippe Rochat . Did not claim to be able to judge a culinary service at this level, I'll just reflect the unfolding of this special day.

But first, some history about the restaurant non-standard. Initially pint
family is Freddy Girardet in 1965 took over the restaurant before giving him a few years later, his gastronomic insufflation after a meeting with Paul Bocuse and the Troisgros brothers.


Freddy Girardet

By 1975, the honors began to rain and soon Switzerland is the leader promoted to the pantheon of world cuisine, named "Best Chef World" and " chef of the century ", alongside Paul Bocuse and Joel Robuchon.

In 1980, Philippe Rochat appeared in the kitchen brigade of Crissier before becoming head chef in 1989. In 1996 he resumed the direction of the restaurant, charging his shoulders the heavy burden to succeed the undisputed master of gastronomy, Freddy Girardet.


Philippe Rochat and his chef, Francois Violier


In 1997, he was awarded three Michelin stars and 19 points Gault Millau , Henri Gault guide that tells 2000: "Crissier still houses the best restaurant in the World." Two-time recipient of the "Five Star Diamond Award ", in 2006 he received the Medal of Merit Agricole French then Worth Cantonale Vaudoise in 2008. He was inducted into the International Order Disciples of Auguste Escoffier , like its chef Violier Benedict, and of the Académie Culinaire de France .


is under a few scattered flakes that we arrived this morning in the restaurant of the Hotel de Ville, around 8am. After donning our suits kitchen, we were greeted by the chef Benedict Violier , Meilleur Ouvrier de France in 2000, and Deputy Chief Franck Giovannini , recent winner of the Bocuse d'Or Swiss , over a cup of coffee and some pastries. We then visited the restaurant kitchen and the bakery and pastry laboratory located in Cheseaux.



We have seen that the cooks Philippe Rochat leave no room for uncertainty as to the freshness of products. All commodities are shipped as soon as possible to the producer to the restaurant, like the fish that arrive in the morning live from the Rungis market, guaranteeing freshness equivalent to the Parisian establishments.

Thus, the maps are made around the seasonal produce available in Central and are entirely changed four times a year. In the same spirit, Philippe Rochat only allows the extraction of flavor from fresh foods, excluding automatically every convenience products. So as a game, for example, will arrive around in the kitchen where it will be fully prepared, butchering the dressing on the plate, through the maturation of the meat.

We understand why a little better, with uncompromising attention given to the product, can be found in the best restaurant in the world.

Then, it was under the direction of Louis Villeneuve , Butler of the institution Since 1975, we discovered the restaurant and the philosophy has maintained the reputation of this house for so many years. Simplicity, excellence, precision, accuracy, kindness, so many values that the brigade Philippe Rochat distilled with talent, both in the kitchen and in room, just like Freddy Girardet did last century.


Louis Villeneuve


Noon approached, it was time to get into the thick of it. So we were invited to lunch and a drink in the lounge Mafi, named after the famous painter Vaud. It is with white wine, Yvorne 2008, Song of the Rosses and the duck foie gras glazed with old Madeira tart berries we started the meal.



Wedding of the sweetness of the foie gras with the character of Madeira and the slight acidity of the berries, the soft with crunchy biscuit. I loved the dessert side (in its layered composition, its sweet flavors) of this first course. A superb introduction.



We then chained to a Pinot Blanc 2008 Henry Cruchon, and on the light parsley soup with black truffles .



The soup was very thin air, warmed slightly so as not to clash with its soft texture. As for truffles, it was a first for me and I was pleasantly surprised to discover that their taste was subtle, much less pronounced than in the flavored oil that I had the opportunity to eat. Lots of fun in this dish.



Then we moved to Section sole of Herbaudière with lovage whose juice beurre blanc and lime was a gustatory ecstasy. It fell perfectly with the smoothness of the floor. A very surprising and delicious dish!





We followed with the Short blue lobster broth with lemongrass Galaway.



Although this dish I had not been as great as the others, there was not any less good. The lobster was a very nice texture and the broth was very tasty bite.



Finally savory dishes, we enjoyed the veal fillet of Simmental, juice beaded black sesame , accompanied by a Dole 2007, Marie-Therese Chappas .



As might be expected, the fillet of veal was incredibly tender. The bitter taste, finely recorded by the big pepper seasoning, were subtly offset by mashed potatoes and juice with black sesame and vegetables. A
mastery and inventiveness of a traditional dish of the region.




We could then choose from a wide selection of Fresh and aged cheese before moving on to pineapple crumble, ice cream passion, accompanied by a Passerillé 2005 , sweet white wine.



The presentation was magnificent level of quality of the dish. The crumble was melting and delicious, perfectly in keeping with the fresh ice. The touch of passion fruit fell to the side of exotic pineapple and gave the hint of acidity balancing the dish.
A real treat and a masterpiece of pastry chef!



Finally, we closed the meal with an assortment of Buttons, fruit jellies and chocolates pure origins, selection of ice cream .



The sweets such as ice cream and sorbets (shaped dumplings in a minute) were very thin, light and subtle. The chocolate ice cream and grapefruit sorbet, meanwhile, was pleasantly surprising taste of their power. A very nice conclusion to an exceptional meal.




What we remember from the experience Philippe Rochat, apart from providing brilliant taste in which we could attend, it is a love and respect for the culinary arts.

bequeathed by his predecessor, Freddy Girardet, the working philosophy of the gross proceeds in the traditions of the kitchen without putting aside the inventiveness and innovation that go hand in hand with a kitchen and living talented, we back to values that seem essential in the restaurant world.

If the result is perfect in our attitude is not only his cooking, the seasoning or cutting is carried out with skill but also that the product used was of excellent quality. This implies a producer attentive to the methods used and the nature of its products.

Thus, for example, Philippe Rochat stopped using bluefin tuna for several years now and he only concentrates on seasonal produce. This ensures continuity in a culinary tradition by following the pace of nature allows us to consume its output.

That, I believe, the finest learning we bequeath currently practiced in the fine dining restaurant of the Hotel de Ville Crissier.





A big thank you to Philippe Rochat and his entire team for their patience and kindness. It was an honor and a personal pride that he could meet you.

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